4 days.... about 110 miles......

Hola!

Well, I´m four days in and doing ok.

I spent the first night on the floor of the albergue as I arrived in Burgos too late and all the beds were taken. But, that meant I wasn´t in the rooms with all the snorers! And trust me, they were REALLY loud! And, I met a really nice German lady, Ute, who has been my traveling companion for the last four days!

We did 30km the first day and were exhausted. Made it to a place called Hostanas and we each got a bed. After a good nights sleep, we set out with all the best intentions....

And only got about 20 km. We met a really nice young Brit, Paul, at about 10km (after a huge hike up a hill and then down...which was worse than going up!). So, all three of us agreed to stop after 20km as we were so tired. We all got beds.... but in the room with the much dreaded Brazilian snorer! This man is legendary on the Camino and he lived up to it! OH..... MY..... GOD! And he was joined in the not-so-heavenly-choir of snorers by 4 others! One of whom sounded like a tiger growling.... None of us got much sleep that night!

In the morning, we set out and got about 25km and Ute and I could not walk another step. So, I walked into a Camino-side bar and asked the bartender, ¨Telephone-ay una taxi por tres persone-ays, por favor?¨ And he did, bless him! So we wimped out and took a taxi for the last 5km. I´m telling you, it felt as though someone had taken a small hammer and beaten the bottom of my feet! Every step was agony. Ute´s knee was really hurting her. We stayed at a really cool albergue run by Augustian nuns. Warm hearts.... cold showers! But, they had a blessing in the evening where they gathered every one together and sang a song for us, told us a little bit about their mission on the Camino (translated from Spanish into English into German!) and then the sisters came around and individually blessed everyone and gave us all a cut-out of a star to remind us that they were praying for our safe journey. Not a dry eye in the house! It was unexpectedly moving.

So this morning, Ute decided to see if she could get a doctor. She said she would try and meet up with us at our next pit stop. So, Paul and I set out for a 17km hike with no services! No bar, no toilet, nuthin! But we made it, stopped for a break and then continued for another 3km. We stopped and had lunch for about an hour. Let my feet recover a bit. Then we set out again. We had about 8km more to go. It was a tough day but we made it and our friend Ute came running down the road just as Paul was about to check his mobile phone to see if she had left a message! Her knee was fine and she got us a room with 4 beds and a private shower! (as opposed to the 15-30 per room and shared showers) and just 7.50 Euros each!

The terrain has been interesting. One day it´s flat and green, the next rolling hills and green. The mornings have been cool (thank goodness) and the afternoons warm to hot. We try to finish around 3-4 in the afternoon so that we aren´t hiking in the heat for too long... and so we get a bed at the albergue! This means we are up and on the Camino before sunrise.

I´m really glad I´ve found two people to travel with however long we stay together. It´s made the time fly and the pain somewhat bearable.

Well, I´m exhausted and my time on the internet machine has run out! It´s time for a cerveza!

As they say on the Camino, Buen Camino!
Dawn